Beauty in the Backyard: Rocky Mountain National Park 6/5/10

Man - did we cheat our first time around on this one. Since Matt and I had both been to Rocky Mountain National Park before we were married, we decided to do a drive-by on the 4th of July, 2009. The crowds in Estes Park were numerous, and a steady rain with mountain cloud cover made the drive less scenic than usual. We drove up to the Fall River Visitor Center over the 4th of July Weekend, took a total of 5 minutes to get the stamp, and then we hightailed it out of there, not wishing to fight the crowds. When you live in a paradise like Colorado, you tend to take each sunny day (of which there are 300+) per year for granted.

 However - our guilt caught up to us the next year, when the snow melted enough to drive through the park in its entirety. However - there was another motive - the stamp at the Alpine Visitor Center, 11,796 feet at the crest of the Rocky Mountains.

The sobering realization that we treated this premiere destination literally in our backyard with ambivalence, came back to us on this June day. Taking deep, clear breaths of fresh mountain air while looking at the cold tundra above 11,000 feet (after leaving our house that late morning with 90 degree temperatures) left us invigorated.

Rocky Mountain National Park has several trails through the valley floor, following streams, elk grazing meadows, and bird watching outposts.

One could spend the day never leaving the valley. However, the highlight of Rocky Mountain National Park is undoubtedly Trail Ridge Road. This road takes the traveler from Estes Park to Grand Lake in approximately 45 miles. But these are no ordinarily traveled miles.....

The road twists and turns, literally passing through ecosystems and geo-climate regions. Keep a sharp eye on the temperature gauge as you drive....it will drop like a rock. You are climbing the Rockies with breathtaking vistas at every turn.

The treeline becomes visible as you pass the 10,000 foot level, and the chilled air begins to pick up velocity. Welcome to the fragile world of the tundra....Life is scarce here, and the snow only melts for 4 months, and even then not all that much. Snowshoeing and Cross Country Skiing are easily done here through August.

At the apex of Trail Ridge Road lies the Alpine Visitor Center. Swamped with tourist cars, it looks as though it takes a beating from the weather every day, and is lucky to stilll be standing at all. The toilets were off limits while we were there in June, as the pipes were still frozen......So apparently were the tourists. Screams of "Get back in the car!" and "Where's my jacket?" came from all sides of the parking lot from non-natives wearing sleeveless shirts and shorts...

On the opposite side of the center as you descend through the park, the snow drifts pick up......as does the scenery.

Trail Ridge Road eventually ends at Grand Lake, CO, and the Kawuneeche Visitor Center to the South. The Valley Floor here has some spectacular trails, that are very easy and wonderful walking.

We actually LIVE here........It seemed amazing to us both as we took the drive through Granby and Winter Park home....that this was a leisurely Saturday drive for us on our own roads. A wonderful Saturday spent in our own backyard......Wanna come for a BBQ at our place???

FINAL RATING

9/10

Delightful Detour: El Malpais Nat'l Monument 3/20/10

There's something to the belief that diminished expectations produce a greater reward, and that idea is no less true when it comes to National Park sites. Sure, most of the "big daddies" are everything they're promised to be, but there's always the risk that waiting a lifetime will prove to have been in vain. Even the second-tier sites can produce an air of despair, as if the miles and miles of hard driving were never really worth it in the end. And then there are places like El Malpais (Spanish for "the badlands"), NPS destinations that never generated any real excitement, and were tossed aside as merely obligatory, to be visited when we had no other choice. We'd clock in, get our stamp, and go through the motions of feigned interest. How wrong we were. El Malpais is no Yellowstone, of course, but it's a cut above not only the initital indifference, but several other locations that we had sought out with glee and relish. There's a strange, rugged beauty to this New Mexico monument, and we're glad we decided turn off in its direction instead of heading straight to Albuquerque.

There's a backcountry wilderness and conservation area to El Malpais, but we stuck pretty close to the monument, as it is conveniently cut through with a well-maintained road. The driving tour is hardly the total experience, but there's enough to charm the eye and justify the exit from I-40. First up, one must visit the Northwest New Mexico Visitor Center (in Grants, off Exit 85), an oddly specific museum indeed (is there a Southeast VC to be had?), but a great place to pick up tips, brochures, and the passport stamps. Please, do not be as foolish as we were and neglect the visitor center's own stamp, an omission which forced us to come back months later when we finally hit El Morro. Leaving the parking lot, one should turn back on Exit 89, as Exit 81 will take you towards El Morro and the privately held Bandera Ice Caves. Also, the initial exit will allow stampers to hit the BLM Ranger Station, which features a stamp that is nearly identical to the one secured at the NW New Mexico Visitor Center, except that it adds its designation as a National Conservation Area. It's a small distinction, but the passport brass will kill you if you don't have every single variation.

First up is the Sandstone Bluffs Overlook, where a short dirt road takes you to the best view of the monument's lava flows and seemingly endless countryside. While the scene may appear dull and lifeless from above, the ground below houses jagged spatter cones and a 17-mile lava tube cave system that formed after the area's hot lava cooled considerably. Even before one enters the monument, the lava mounds are everywhere, adding to an otherworldly feel that challenges our idea of what constitutes natural beauty. We loved it, and one shouldn't think that the black seas of lava eliminate plant life altogether. In fact, El Malpais features many flowers and ponderosa pine. The terrain is also home to scorpions and bullsnakes, a fact which justifies our desire to stay as close to the vehicle as possible.

Next up is the La Ventana Natural Arch, which is located across from "The Narrows" (where lava flowed near the base of 500-foot-high cliffs and hikers can explore via the Narrows Rim Trail). La Ventana hardly ranks with the best of Utah's fabled arches, but it is New Mexico's largest, and its erosion from sandstone dates back to the age of dinosaurs (gotta love these park brochures). The arch pretty much represented the end of the driving tour, as much as we wanted to strap on our gear and tackle the Cebolla Wilderness (petroglyphs abound, as well as certain death for the Cales).

In all, a blue sky, crisp March breeze, and two well-earned stamps made it a quietly enjoyable day, and we were now set to hit the big city ahead with a little gambling (very little, as we are the world's cheapest, most cautious gamblers). We never would have come here without the passport stamp addiction, which is the best, most lasting reason to take on such a hobby. Sure, it's not worth a drive all by itself (even we were coming back from bagging bigger game), but if you're in the area, no one should begrudge you a similar delightful detour.

FINAL RATING

6.5/10

Side Dish: Monument Valley 5/9/09

Against all odds and defying all logic, there is good news in Navajo Nation. Sure, we'd get the flip side later that night while staying in one of the world's most depressing towns not on the African continent - Kayenta, Arizona - but for the day in question, there was Monument Valley. Familiar even to those who haven't set foot within a thousand miles of its beauty, Monument Valley and its iconic landscape has been featured in countless movies (most prominently in the canon of John Ford), and often stands in as the visual representation of the Old West. When one thinks of stagecoaches, Indian raids, and lonely rides on horseback, one thinks of little else but this eye-popping region straddling the southern Utah and northern Arizona borders. And to think the drive in is just as lovely.

Monument Valley Tribal Park, having just celebrated its 50th Anniversary in 2008, is unfortunately not under the control of the National Park Service (and yes, for more reasons than just the lack of a passport stamp), but for what it's worth, the Navajo Nation is doing a solid job moving people along and keeping the area pristine. The 2009 addition of The View Hotel and Resort (the only one inside the park itself) might seem like a sad bow to commercialism, but it also represents an opportunity for this historically disadvantaged tribe to make a fine living. It's not as crass as, say, a She Wore a Yellow Ribbon Casino or something, and the rooms - all of which face the stunning scenery (allowing for unparalleled sunrises and sunsets) - are undeniably tempting. Who wouldn't want to nurse a cup of coffee with this staring you in the face?

So for a modest $5 charge per person, we took the drive along the wildly dusty dirt trail. First, however, we had to stare from the visitor center's back balcony. Chatty Germans aside (they were everywhere), we enjoyed the vibrant colors, gentle breeze, and heart-stopping vistas. Having wanted to venture here for years, it was a great release to finally put this one to bed. And why not top it off with the purchase of a gen-u-ine rattlesnake coffee mug? It's as close to authenticity one could expect without having access to a John Wayne cardboard cutout. All of our goodies in hand, we made our way to the road, which was predictably busy, though we took comfort in the fact that we had rejected the open-faced tram. To a man, the load of tourists choked and hacked as the red soil caked their faces, clogged their lungs, and damn near killed a good dozen of them. With our windows safely shut tight - and the A/C on full blast - we made our way along the bumpy trail.

It's all there - The Mittens and Merrick Butte, Elephant Butte and the Three Sisters, Camel Butte and John Ford's Point - and the twentieth glimpse is as thrilling as the first. We both adore the Southwest, and its barren, throat-tightening isolation is only the surface of its charm. Before the "official" closing of the West by Frederick Jackson Turner, what lay before us this fine day is what pushed people to the brink; what inspired, motivated, prodded, and in some cases, drove to madness. It was possibility and despair all in turn, but at no point was it anything less than the fulfillment of the American ideal. It's a pleasure to see it just as they did, even if we're a little more advanced in our methods of transportation.

Before leaving the valley's overpowering beauty, we encountered on our last stop an all-too-typical example of the worst of Navajo Nation: a wandering dog. While as sweet-natured as the rest, she was also filthy and sporting signs of a recent litter (we named her Dusty), a guarantee that even more unwanted animals would roam the area. It is here that we move to the dark corner of the Navajo land, in that animals of all kinds seem to exist in a anarchic free-for-all, roaming the sands and streets at will. Take Kayenta, previously mentioned as a disaster of epic proportions. In addition to the war zone that passes for a business district (we found a pizza joint, but alas, they used nuclear fallout as sauce, and the roof of my mouth is still recovering), we had to dodge assorted horses, sheep, and the splattered corpses of the dearly departed as they cluttered up the road. It was a truly surreal sight for a century not tied to wagon trails and the call of the cavalry bugle, and it damn near spoiled an otherwise opulent evening at the Best Western. Apparently they bulldozed the Four Seasons just prior to our arrival.

Though no one in the Navajo Parks and Recreation Department will win any ASPCA awards in this or any other year, don't let that depressing fact deter you from a visit. This is a destination spot, and one worthy of any seasoned traveler. The brochure notes the "red rock enchantment," and that's as good a way as any to describe what one's eyes will take in during a visit. It's the American West of our imaginations, and the focal point of our wandering hearts.

Hot Stuff in Flagstaff - Sunset Crater National Monument - 5/26/10

Let it be said before going further....Flagstaff is perfection in Arizona. After endless hours of Arizona desert, a gradual climb on I-40 brings you from 100+ degrees on the dusty plain, to 70 degrees at Flagstaff's summit, all within 15 minutes of driving. Sunset Crater National Monument is an oasis of beauty on ground that was once volatile.

A mere 900 years ago, this serene valley was shaped by this 1000-foot high volcano erupting for an entire year. Spewing ash, cinder and rivers of lava over the valley floor, the Native Americans that resided near the area named this a variation of "Sunset Crater" due to the magnificent colors the sky glowed for the near part of 365 days. What remains today is a stunning cinder cone, which is yet another reminder that the classic shape of what we think of when one mentions a volcano, isn't one at all. Everything we see is the buildup of lava, cinder, etc., along the sides to form the picture we now associate with volcanoes around the world.

The rocks and sand throughout the valley are completely black, and lava floes are present all throughout the monument's perimeter. Some floes are truly impressive, with igneous rocks forming a river of sorts. The one- mile Lava Flow Trail goes around the base of Sunset Crater along the best of the lava deposits. Sunset Crater itself is off limits for hiking <enter facetious "Oh Shoot!" here from the Cales> but the ground here is not easy at all to walk on. Shoes sink in the heavy black gravel every where you step, so hiking is far more arduous.

The visitor center, once again, is a relic. But upon exiting the car, Brooke took the deepest breath she had in a while and exclaimed "Wow......that is amazing. Do you smell that?", to which Matt answered, "What? Fresh Air?" It was true........the combination of the clean air and the fresh pine scent that accompanied it was almost foreign.

Activities, other than camping and hiking the valley floor, are sparse in Sunset Crater. And with the absence of a film or interpretative visitor center exhibits, Sunset Crater does not come to life as the site desperately should. But sometimes....Flagstaff's fresh air is worth its weight in gold.

FINAL RATING

7/10

A Wonderfully Close Encounter: Devils Tower Nat'l Monument 10/17/09

Among his many virtues, Theodore Roosevelt knew how to make a splash. In 1906, the President, always one to revel in the power of his office, declared Devils Tower in Wyoming's northeastern corner the nation's first National Monument. It was a wise choice for any number of reasons, the most obvious being its utter originality as a natural wonder. Drive the entire nation from stem to stern, and it's unlikely you'll see anything so simultaneously odd and magnificent jetting out of the earth. A mighty 867 feet tall from base to summit, Devils Tower is, as the scientists might say, an igneous intrusion, with the sedimentary rock eroding away over time to produce what we see today. It is not, as some believe, an old volcano. To come upon its glory is truly spectacular, as it appears to have been plopped down in the middle of nowhere, defying the surrounding landscape to compete for attention. Close Encounters of the Third Kind surely made it famous for an entirely new generation of travelers, but it stands on its own as one of the park service's most worthy destinations.

We had planned on a visit to the monument years before, but a fire prevented us from reaching the area. Almost a decade later, we finally arrived, and it was well worth the wait. This is unquestionably one of those times where a mere picture fails to capture the grandeur of the actual object in question. One is merely content to stare at Devils Tower from afar, especially when the sky reaches such a brilliant state of blue. Our October day was altogether serene, and as we drove through the gate, we had no idea our awe would multiply with each subsequent step.

The visitor center, unfortunately, is a complete waste of time, as it is cramped, barren, and lacking anything by way of real information. Why such a popular spot lacks a world-class facility is beyond me, though perhaps one could argue that a bustling visitor center is often a mask for a site that isn't worth a damn. Move along and get to what you came here for, right? So after acquiring our passport stamp (and unexpected bonus picture stamp), we headed to the Tower Trail, which featured a rather steep incline at the outset. It was a test of our shabby knees and frail physiques, and not at all the proper way to begin a hike clocking in at just over a mile. We figured it had to level out, but please, NPS, keep an eye out for the fatties when you construct these trails.

After taking a breather, we walked on through a stunning collection of rocks and trees, which gave off the proper rustic feel. The temperature could not have been more perfect, and every so often, a break in the trees would reveal yet another part of the tower before us. The best way to walk this trail is to keep your eyes ahead, glance briefly around you, then pause and look up. It's that beautiful constant that never leaves your side for the entirety of your stay. There's also a side trail to the "rock pile" (the rock is Phonolite porphyry, similar in composition to granite) section of the monument, though none of the tower's columns have fallen in over 200 years. Still, it's a powerful reminder that at one point in the future, Devils Tower will be no more. We will meet the same fate, of course, but then again, few of us will ever be as interesting as this monument.

Believe it or not, the NPS actually lets people climb Devils Tower, and as we walked along the trail, we noticed a few brave (foolish?) souls pushing and pulling their way up. Admittedly, I would like to see what's up there, especially given the rumors about alien visits and the like. Even the Indian tribes have their own theory about the tower, whose "scratches" along the sides were believed to have been caused by a giant bear trying to attack a few stray females that had made their way to the top. Silly to be sure, but no more so than those who, because they consider geology and other earth sciences to be up for debate, would argue that something like Devils Tower was formed over a long weekend by an angry deity. The monument came to be as all natural wonders do - without intent or purpose, simply process - and it's a testament to man's imagination that we can (and do) find it beautiful. To date, it's still one of my favorites.

FINAL RATING

10/10

Kivalicious - Aztec Ruins National Monument - 5/27/10

Were you aware that there was a reconstructed kiva at Aztec Ruins??? And that thiswillbethelastkivaeverreconstructedbecausethelawshavechangedetcetcetc??

Terribly sorry.......It is just that I heard about the reconstructed kiva for MONTHS before we went to Aztec. Every time the prospected trip to Aztec came up in passing, it was the Kiva that dominated the conversation. This kiva, as Matt described it, was more important than the Great Pyramids of Giza, Eiffel Tower, and Great Wall of China combined. So, it was with some trepidation that I approached the small site located behind a neighborhood in the small town of Aztec, NM.

Situated as previously mentioned, in the back of a small cul-de-sac, it was fitting that it ended in a complex that once served as a neighborhood of its own. From the late 1000's through the 1200's, a considerable group of Central Puebloans built a settlement for daily life and ceremonial worship on this land approximately 50 miles south of the Cliff Dwellers in Mesa Verde, CO. Native American ruins sites are ubiquitous throughout the National Park Service in the Southwest, but each has its own mark. Some ruins are situated at the bottom of a waterless canyon (Walnut Canyon), others literally vertically carved into a rock in Arizona (Montezuma Castle) and this one, which is in a relatively fertile land near the mountains of Colorado. But this one..........has a reconstructed kiva.

The film inside the poor visitor center, was apparently made by the CCC when they constructed the building. Instead of history and the reason for the migration into this area, this film focused only on Native American Spirtualism and was exceptionally grainy.

However - much to our surprise - this little site, which seems the red-headed step child to Mesa Verde and Chaco Culture - is in reality - quite nice. A magical surprise awaited us as we walked around the perimeter of the ruins: the first chance to literally climb through the ruins, and wiggle through the tight passages into the cooler sub-rooms throughout the complex.

The corridors above are narrower than one would imagine and made to represent the average height of the people that resided here at one time, which must have been 4-foot-2. These doorways were LOW. Each one represented a game of "Limbo", as it did take some maneuvering on our part to get through. And every step of the way, we had a huge smile on our face. THIS was fun. It was the first time in our Ruins visits that we felt a part of the site. While we understand the need to keep the general public off of the ancient stone, without this vantage point, it was never really palpable before. Our questions on how they kept themselves and their wares cool in the blistering summers, were quickly answered as we ventured lower into the enclosed, shady rooms. And how on earth did so many people live here? The rooms that look like small enclosures are actually quite roomy when the walls were completed. This was living history........

After crawling on our knees to exit the ruins, my eyes focused in the bright May sunlight and the great wonder appeared before me......This, my friends is the Great Aztec Kiva. Reconstructed in the 1930's by a young archeologist, Earl Morris, who supervised the excavation and rebuilding of an exact replication of what the Kiva would look like. And I may now add after my visit..........it was glorious.

Upon entering down a narrow staircase...everything finally came together from all of the sites we had previously visited, The round ruins viewed at other sites came alive as they could not have before. Native American music had been piped in encompassing the site while the sun peeked through the ceiling.

The cool interior provided respite from the heat, and every word we spoke echoed around the round walls. I acquiesced to Matt....he was right. This was grand.

Where sites run together so often, Aztec Ruins provided a fresh perspective on the history of our nation's first settlers. In the perpetual shadow of the great Mesa Verde, itself a very short drive to the north, and its location which masks the treasures seem like a neighborhood intrusion, Aztec Ruins is a diamond in the NPS system........................Oh, and did I mention the reconstructed Kiva??? Just checking......

FINAL RATING

8/10