Border Wars: Fort Scott Nat'l Historic Site 4/29/13

There's always a certain level of sadness whenever one clears a state of its NPS passport stamps. For some, like South Dakota or Arizona, it means having no compelling reason to go back, unless of course the Cales can figure out how to have fun without feeding our unhinged obsession. But with hundreds of sites left to visit, it's hard to defend retracing our steps when so many new lands beckon our weary bodies. When it comes to Kansas, however, there are few regrets. Sure, we've come to understand that the eastern region of the state is infinitely more appealing than the western half, but not even Topeka or Manhattan are enough to foster genuine fondness. The Sunflower State, it pains us to admit, is the kind if place one drives through to get somewhere else, and while it might again feel our footsteps, we don't have to actually stop. It's over, baby, and we can at last put its mediocrity to bed. Predictably, the whole thing meets its expected end at a fort, the sort of place that has the capacity to educate and entertain, but has its work cut out for it once a person has already seen a good dozen of them. Not that all forts are built the same, mind you, but on the plains, one is as good (or bad) as any other. Men stayed, men marched, and horses shat. About the only difference remains whether the soldiers killed Indians or protected supplies. Often they did both.

Fort Scott National Historic Site, conveniently located in the quaint border town of Fort Scott, KS, was established in 1842 as "one of a line of forts from Minnesota to Louisiana that helped to enforce the promise of a permanent Indian frontier." Long story short, the U.S. government needed outposts west of the Mississippi to ensure that Ma and Pa Kettle could reasonably expect to live, scalps intact. Named for General Winfield Scott (who had not yet run for president), the fort was designed by Captain Thomas Swords to serve as a "crack post of the frontier," which was his way of saying that eastern values were expected to reign, even in the lonely west. As such, an emphasis was placed on architecture and quality, as both were often neglected on the "impermanent" prairie. And while most of the buildings on display are reconstructions, historical photos demonstrate a sound fidelity to the original design. Few forts were luxurious, of course, but for the time, this might not have been a bad place to bed down for the night.

After getting the stamp at the visitor center (which was the fort's hospital), one walks next door to the true centerpiece of the site, the Infantry Barracks. Originally built in 1844, it later served as the Western Hotel once the site was closed and its contents auctioned to the public in 1855. But lest one think the hotel was some 19th century Holiday Inn, the building was itself a line in the sand, a way to distinguish itself as a pro-slavery haven in a town increasingly on the side of savagery. With free-staters roaming the countryside around the town of Fort Scott, the hotel witnessed numerous clashes, including the 1858 attack by abolitionist James Montgomery, who tried to burn the hotel to the ground. While Fort Scott was hardly the focus of the border battles involving ruffians and the like, it did serve to enhance the site's historical importance for later generations. In that sense, it's a lasting symbol of the pre-war period, proving that frontier violence was often more than bank robbers and notorious outlaws. Kansas bled, and often for the most insidious of causes.

The current building now houses a reasonably insightful museum, as well as one of the better films we've encountered. Through reenactments and sharp narration, the film deals head-on with the slavery crisis of the fort's later years, emphasizing difficult issues in their proper context. Too many forts simply want to recreate "the life" (more hardtack than hard truth), but Fort Scott NHS understands the obligation to actual history. As the walk continues, one encounters the Dragoon Stables (later serving as a Civil War storehouse), Dragoon Barracks, Post Headquarters, and Officers' Quarters (later the Fort Scott Hotel). These buildings served their expected purpose from 1842-1853, though the Dragoon Barracks became a land office and courtroom during the Bleeding Kansas years. It's an easy, relaxed journey, especially given our perfect weather day.

Behind the buildings is a restored Tallgrass Prairie loop trail, which remained unexplored by us due to last year's bitter experience with the actual Tallgrass Prairie NPS site. We still grind our teeth over the lazy ass rangers who denied us a bus tour. From there, one can see a Quartermaster Storehouse, Bake House, and Powder Magazine. Sure, most of the site is less the original source of history than a "feeder" for other, greater events and conflicts (infantry and dragoons left Fort Scott to fight in the war with Mexico), but not all worthy designations need have felt the sting of actual battle. There's a strong sense of place at Fort Scott, and despite being set in the center of a living town, it does a reasonable job of blocking out modern intrusions. As history's "witness," the site - through the usual combination of local pride, boosterism, and federal dollars - became part of the NPS family in 1978. And while it isn't necessarily worth a long drive all on its own, it's a vital part of any reflection on the region's often controversial past.

FINAL RATING

6/10