Thursday, February 3, 2011

We'll Have the Elk......Wait, What? - Bent's Old Fort National Historic Site - 8/15/09

Bent's Old Fort, located in the south-central town of La Junta, CO, was the inspiration for a Colorado Dining Landmark, "The Fort" http://www.thefort.com/ , which also happens to be one of the Cale's preferred dining spots. The Fort Restaurant is located in the hills just outside of Morrison, CO, and echoes the frontier fortresses of old. The crackling log fire, along with piped-in Native American flute tunes, reflect a gimmick restaurant to be sure, but it features the famous "Game Plate", which consists of a Buffalo Filet Mignon, two Elk Chops and a Teriyaki Glazed Quail, which is so good, it makes you wanna' slap your mama.
A slight diversion on a travel blog, but any reminder of The Fort is a-ok with us. A short 72-mile drive off of I-25 near Pueblo takes you through several small towns famous for their watermelons, cantaloupes and honeydew melons (well worth stopping at a roadside stand to pick up a few along the way). A small drive from La Junta brings the traveler to the entrance of the reconstructed 1840's adobe fort.

The bugs were in full force as we approached near the end of the day. Brooke had been bitten by a spider a day before in Denver, creating not only a lump on her upper arm, but dizzy spells to boot. No matter though....Matt announced early in the morning, "Get up...we're going to Bent's". Protests of double vision fell on deaf ears, and we headed into Southeastern Colorado. Upon exiting the car at Bent's, two additional mosquitos bit Brooke on the short walk you see above you. NOT a pleasant start to the visit.
However - once inside, all itching subsided and we immersed ourselves in the fur trading reconstructed building before us. There is not a "ranger station" to be found here; a table in the hallway and a folding chair comprised the only visible ranger area. We knew from reading the NPS website that Bent's Old Fort had a new film available for viewing: "Castle of the Plains", a 20-minute documentary which introduced the site in great detail.
This excellent film was the very best of all forts we have visited in the NPS system as of yet. William & Charles Bent made their mark by establishing the fort as an important Indian trading post, along with a fur pelt processing and packaging "center" of sorts. The Fort gained importance during the migration of travelers on the Santa Fe Trail, allowing needed respite, but also for protection against the Natives. The Bent Brothers, however, knew that business was supreme. All were welcome......as long as their money shone brightly, or their pack mules was covered in buffalo skins.
Bent's Old Fort was designated as a National Historic Site by President Eisenhower in June 1960, and the reconstruction of the dilapadated fort took place over the next 16 years. Schematics, maps and personal accounts were all painstakingly researched to create the exact replica we see today. Normally, replicas fail to establish the feeling of another era, as the plastered walls are always visible. Bent's, however, is extremely well done from top to toe. The Fort appears as it did in its heyday, and the NPS allows wildlife to wander through the Fort's walls with abandon. (The peacock below, is NPS property, however...he did scare the bejeezus out of us both as we left a room, almost stepping on him).
As with many other forts, the rooms were outfitted with period furnishings and replica furniture and goods. However, at other sites like Fort Larned and Fort Laramie, they feel out of place, as they are often behind glass and not accessible to the traveler. At Bent's, everything (and every room) is at your service. Walk up to the cinder filled stove, sit at the chow table, hell....sleep in the bed if you want to to try it out. Here, everything feels as though the people had just gone to La Junta for the day to soak up a little sun and would be due back any minute. It all works here......

The interaction with the surroundings allows a connection to this site that is lacking at other Fort sites around the country. Perhaps we are no better than a couple of kids in a Children's Musuem wanting to touch everything in our vicinity, but it was a good change from the sterile environments of the other outposts.
The walking tour brochure, picked up at the entryway, is essential. Although it is obvious where you are in the fort from your room's decor, the brochure laces each room with stories and memories from inhabitants, soldiers, and passers-by over the years in the Fort.
A visit can be completed in a little over an hour, but one could spend a much longer visit at Bent's Old Fort NHS, if the surrounding area trails and riverside walks are traversed. It is a delightful way to spend a day in a lesser known area of Colorado.

Pity, though, about the lack of elk chops........

FINAL RATING

7/10

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