A Wyoming Winter: Fort Laramie Nat'l Historic Site 1/29/11

Fort Laramie National Historic Site, an agreeable destination in its own right, has the unfortunate distinction of inhabiting the same state as the true giants of the NPS: Yellowstone, Grand Teton, and Devils Tower. In the face of such magnificence, how on earth do you sell a mere fort? Geysers, rugged peaks, and igneous intrusions will always win out over reconstructed Civil War era buildings, of course, but it makes little sense to pass this one by when it's so crucial to understanding the entire American fort system. In their own way, all are linked by their trade, Indian policy, and push for Western expansion, and without them, one wonders how the very parks we now deem superior would have been established and protected. Forts are essential to our historical identity, and the Laramie incarnation is one of the best.

Located three miles southwest of Fort Laramie, WY, near the towns of Guernsey and Torrington, the fort is settled beautifully at the edge of the Laramie River, combining unpolished ruins with faithful reproductions of the past. As a fan of "leave it as it was", I was glad to see mere facades dotting the site, but somehow adding the "new" provides a much-needed insight into how one might have lived on the vast plains over 150 years ago. Founded as a trading post by the American Fur Company in 1836, Fort Laramie was eventually purchased by the U.S. Army in 1849. As a military outpost, it became a key bulwark in the defense of American interests (read: the push of commerce at the behest of the white man), and throughout the following decades, it hosted numerous treaty councils, most of which were broken by The Man when discoveries of gold trumped honor and the sanctity of contracts. At Laramie, the story played out as expected.

When we last visited Fort Laramie in the summer of 2009, the site was teeming with visitors, costumed reenactors, and a measurable level of good cheer. Now, as January neared its end, the weather was decent, but there wasn't another soul in sight. Even the ranger seemed a little startled as we entered the sub-par visitor center, enthusiastically starting the film for us as if the thing hadn't been played in weeks. The movie, while humble, was pretty damn good, as it was informative, detailed, and - most crucially - not boring. Context was provided, and the facts never got in the way of the overall narrative. Sure, the theater itself was more a glorified waiting room than comfortable center for education and entertainment, but at least it had the rest of the building beat, which was little more than a haphazard collection of books, jams, and Old West odds and ends. We'd skipped the film last time for no good reason, so we were pleased to have "earned" the stamp this time around. Sure, we'd miss the lack of faux soldiers gnawing hardtack riverside, but the walk was worthwhile all the same.

After leaving the visitor center, one should proceed immediately to the Old Bakery, stroll along the river, and then check out the latrine and Old Guardhouse, which allows visitors to walk right in and inspect the Four Seasons-style accomodations for misbehaving soldiers. After more ruins, you'll hit the far end of the fort, the Captain's Quarters, which held the distinction this winter day of being colder inside than the outside air. It was drafty, cramped, and quiet, though they do their best to recreate "homey" scenes with period furniture and the like (from 1872, to be exact). Another highlight is Old Bedlam, which housed bachelor officers and their wild parties. One imagines this was the cathouse of the fort, unless you believe "bedlam" included quiet nights of poetry readings and meditation. The fort's center area (for maneuvers, drills, and all sorts of marching) is large and expansive, allowing one to see how the fort was, at bottom, a relatively large town for the period.

The third in the above series of photos is, of course, from our summer tour, and one can see how much more inviting the fort is during the warmer, greener months. That said, forts were in service during the entire year, not just tourist season, and the lack of green grass doesn't mean you're facing a less authentic view. Regardless of the time of year you visit, the drive to the site is delightful, complete with small town visions, old bridges, and cheeky signs (the one for the town of Fort Laramie says, "Home of 250 Good People and 6 Soreheads"). Regarding the latter, I think I might have encountered one of the six in nearby Torrington, thought one might be tempted to excuse her soreness on account of her five o'clock shadow. Maybe I should have directed her to the fort; not even a female Tom Selleck could resist its charms.

FINAL RATING

7/10