The Ruins of History: Fort Union Nat'l Monument 5/16/09

Like Capulin Volcano to the north, we had passed Fort Union National Monument many times in the past, not at all tempted to walk its grounds, nor discover its place in Western history. Forts weren't on our radar screens back then, that is, until we discovered the passport stamps that accompanied them. But this is an old story. Fort Union, located near the nowhere town of Watrous, New Mexico (right off I-25) is different from other forts in that it's been left as a mere shell (no reconstructions here, unlike Bent's Old Fort or Fort Laramie), a fortunate decision in that it's better appreciated as a relic from the past, rather than a reproduction with modern gloss. The structures that add some new paint, furniture, and sturdy facades are, in their own way, helpful in re-imagining days gone by, but if given the choice, I'd rather see husks; broken shards of a time so vital in its moment, now having fallen silent forever. Even more fortuitous was the overcast sky above us. Usually a blue sky is what we crave, but somehow the ominous weather added to the sense that we were walking with ghosts.

Fort Union, like all forts in the 19th century, served the dual function of protecting trade routes and sheltering settlers from Indian encroachment. There were actually three Fort Unions, the first of which operated from 1851-1861 and was, according to the literature, "a collection of shabby log buildings needing almost constant repair." But it served its purpose of keeping an eye out for those using the Santa Fe Trail and acting as military headquarters for the region. Fort #2 (1861-1862) must be understood within the context of the Civil War, and was to be a defense against an expected Confederate attack. After the South was turned away in March of 1862, the second fort was abandoned in favor of #3, which held from 1863-1891. This final incarnation had more of a permanent "city" feel and was a key military supply outpost for much of its existence. Food, clothing, arms, and ammunition made their way through here, and as such, Fort Union's importance in helping to "win the West" cannot be underestimated.

The site's pamphlet is a good one, as it provides detailed descriptions of what visitors were looking at, even if mere blocks remained. From officer's quarters to the military prison, the walk is easy and deliberate, with a true sense of the fort's existence as an oasis in a lonely landscape. Also, the map demonstrates that the Santa Fe Trail runs right along the northeastern edge of the site where the transportation and post corrals would have been. The railroad would eventually kill the trail (and the fort), but in its day, bustling doesn't even begin to cover the level of activity.

While this "outdoor museum" is far from a destination spot, its location off the freeway makes it a no-brainer to visit. Only a grouch could hate a fort, and it's all the more interesting to see once you've also tackled Fort Larned, Bent's, and other links on a lengthy Western chain. The visitor center didn't seem like much, though we strolled right through, so we're not sure if they even have an introductory film (UPDATE: We saw their new film in March 2011, and it's outstanding). The only comments from our lips were in reference to the lonely young ranger, who treated our mid-afternoon visit as a genuine treat, as it was likely the first of the day. The site might also think about repairing the broken audio tour stops, but something tells me they're barely hanging on as it is. Sad, but an inevitable fall for what was once the largest military installation on the Southwestern frontier.

FINAL RATING

6/10