Land of Enchantment: Bandelier Nat'l Monument 11/6/09

Such a day is rare, but when it comes, you cherish the alignment of forces. Sky? Blue and all but cloudless, thank you very much. Temperature? Low 60s, even though it's November. Weather? No wind, no bite, and shockingly, a little warm for my taste. Lastly, though not least of all, was Bandelier National Monument. The site itself, tucked away in the Frijoles Canyon a short distance from Los Alamos, New Mexico, is the perfect combination of natural beauty, ease of movement, and historical wonder, but the drive in is just as momentous. Even then, visitors (so long as they do not leave the same way they came) have the Valles Caldera to enjoy as they head toward parts unknown, which just might become a National Monument in its own right (currently, it's classified as a National Preserve, protected by a unique board of trustees). The only disappointment on our end was that we came too soon to enjoy the revitalized visitor center (it was finished in August 2010). Trailers never do, but the cancellation station makes up for a lack of exhibits and context.

Bandelier, at its core, preserves a homestead of the Ancestral Puebloan people (from the early 1100s to around 1500), combining the excavated Tyuonyi Pueblo with dwellings carved into the porous canyon walls. The site is named for Adolph Bandelier, an anthropologist who brought attention to the site in the 1880s with his scientific reports and novels, culminating in its declaration as a National Monument in 1916. Future scientists performed much of the leg work, however. From that time to the present, Bandelier has been a work in progress, a testament to the best of what the NPS can offer.

Bandelier is best seen by the 1.2 mile Main Loop Trail, which can take anywhere from 45-60 minutes, and leads visitors through the highlights of the monument. In addition to Tyuonyi (once two stories tall with over 400 rooms) and the Big Kiva, you will see the Long House (800 feet long, including many petroglyphs), Talus House (reconstructed in 1920), and the smile-inducing cavates, which are small, human-carved alcoves. People are encouraged to explore these little rooms, and fortunately, they're big enough for those packing a few extra pounds. As if all that weren't enough, the latter part of the trail becomes a puzzle of narrow stairs and slick rock paths. It's a challenging walk, though essential for any full understanding of Bandelier's beauty.

Beyond the main trail lies the Alcove House, which went unexplored on our end, largely because of the 140-foot ascent over four wooden ladders and numerous stone stairs. I desperately wanted to see the reconstructed kiva (we'd see one soon enough at Aztec Ruins, thankfully on level ground), but visions of shattered knees and great falls kept us on the path back to the visitor center. Much to our surprise, the stroll back to the car was one of peace and relaxation, as the sky, trees, and Frijoles Creek - along with fleeting glimpses of the canyon walls - evoked knowing glances between us. While we might come back soon enough to see the new film and updated facilities, we'll be able to live on the great memories alone for quite some time.

FINAL RATING

9/10