Symbol of the Southwest: Saguaro Nat'l Park 3/3/11 & 3/4/11

I am told that when visiting the Tucson area as a two-year-old, I was enamored with the saguaro cactus. This may or not may be true, or relevant, as I was also fond of dirt, avoiding bathtubs, and obsessively picking my nose. Still, some of that passion must have remained buried deep within, as I still retain an affinity for that great desert plant, still the most remarkable and unlikely we're ever likely to see. Beginning its life as a mere pin prick, it is said that "out of the millions of seeds that a saguaro produces, few plants survive to adulthood." This evolutionary heft ensures that these "chosen few" are rugged, majestic, and born tough, sometimes living as long as 150 years, towering over 50 feet in height, and weighing over 16,000 pounds. Inhabiting an environment that typically sees less than 12 inches of rain per year, the saguaro beats the odds, earning our respect and admiration for its defiance and adaptive superiority. Nothing should survive out here, we argue, yet there it stands - in numbers that boggle the imagination.

Saguaro National Park is, in reality, two separate units, each holding its own distinct set of rewards. The eastern half, the Rincon Mountain District, is set against a stark mountainside, though compromised somewhat by the ever-present community in its midst. It's a neighborhood attraction in many ways, and getting to the visitor center and loop drive is little more than a series of stoplights and teeming traffic. I suppose we should be thankful it exists at all, as the area appears to be stacked with choice property and grand estates, prompting pessimistic rants about future encroachments on the saguaro's land. The Rincon visitor center is rather forgettable, and without a film or exhibits worth a damn, it can be skipped in full once the passport stamp is secured. The eight-mile drive, however, is grand indeed, despite the obnoxious cyclists who threaten to smash into your car at every opportunity. There are numerous stops along the way, all with striking views of the endless fields of cacti. We arrived just as the sun was setting, so it made for a playful contrast of flickering light and the still achingly blue sky. Tucson can be a bitch in the summer, but this March day was just right.

The other half (Saguaro West), usually deemed superior by park experts, is known as the Tucson Mountain District, and it has the advantage of being tucked away beyond the cares of residential sprawl. Be aware that 30 miles separates West from East, and it might be a good idea to visit each one on separate days. The Western side also contains the more dynamic visitor center (with one hell of a view right between the VC entrance and the restrooms), even if the "film" is simply a slideshow. That said, once it ends, the screen rises up to reveal a park vista so enchanting you can't wait to get out there among the green giants. Once you leave the Red Hills Visitor Center, you'll need to take the Scenic Bajada Loop Drive, which is 1.5 miles of surprisingly well-maintained dirt road. There are several trails for the seasoned traveler, but we chose the more modest Signal Hill option, which led us up some moderately steep steps to petroglyphs and unbeatable views.

Refreshed by the brief walk at Saguaro West, it struck me why I love the Southwest so deeply. It's unforgiving, yes, and can overwhelm visitors with its endless stretches of road that seem to lead to nowhere in particular, but in few other places in our country can you see so many unique formations, landscapes, and colors. Again, light has a field day out here, and it's still staggering to think that so many ended up here from somewhere deemed even less welcoming to human habitation. Perhaps many of us are numb to the effects of the Saguaro because their image is so common when speaking of Arizona or the American desert, but for many of us, one isolated plant is all we ever see (and who hasn't encountered the prickly pear variety?). The Saguaro, however, living out its days where it started, among thousands of its brethren, cannot be appreciated without a direct encounter. As such, this is a true jewel of the NPS, and one to savor for a lifetime.

FINAL RATING

9/10